The automatic flash calculates the exposure by itself it is enough to set the synchronization speed in the camera update the flash for the ASA of the film we are using and choose one of the automatic apertures that the particular flash has by putting it on the lens as well. The dedicated flash adjusts everything by itself in cooperation with the camera for which it is designed. Most builtin flashes of small machines are also dedicated. Automations Today's machines offer many automations. Sometimes useful and sometimes excessive. If your camera is automatic only it's best to forget everything and focus on composing and shooting. If you can intervene think about the previous observations and either make all the settings yourself or trick the machine's automation when required. A common automation is autofocus. As long as the subject in the center is also the one we want to focus on. Otherwise we have to lock the focus on it and then reframe and take the photo.
The bad thing is that by locking we usually lock the exposure as well while e-commerce photo editing it may not be the ideal point for both functions. The other automations are about exposure. In the cases of problematic photometry we must know depending on each camera how to fool the automation. If there is no other way to intervene and the camera allows manual positioning of the ASA which is not always the case we can change the ASA for a photo and change the exposure. If for example we are photographing with ASA film and we want to add two stops of light in front of a white church it is enough to move the pointer to ASA thus giving a wrong command to the light meter that we supposedly have less sensitive film. Focus focus with attention. Decide whether or not you want depth of field. Accordingly choose a closed aperture a large number for a large depth or an open aperture a small number for a shallow depth. In addition to the aperture the depth of field is affected by the lens depth and by the distance from the focal point nearshallow depth farlarge depth.
You want the whole photo and its static parts to come out moving choose a slow shutter speed under second. If you want everything to come out clean and still including the moving parts choose the fastest big number speed that the lighting allows. You choose the combination of aperturesspeeds with the first consideration being the correct meteringexposure. Take into account the inside lighting usually from behind the subject eg sunset balcony door spotlights etc. and increase the light by two stops smaller numbers. Do the same when photographing very white or churches etc. You can light meter the ground and follow this indication for you exclude stray light while usually the ground soil asphalt parquet carpets has an average reflection for which the light meters of all cameras are set . If using negatives color or black and white when in doubt give more light smaller numbers. If you use slides less. If your camera has a builtin flash use it almost always.
发表于 2022-10-30 07:56:58
